Dryer Vent Replacement
When patching a run no longer makes sense — damaged beyond repair, or built from material that should not be in a dryer exhaust.
Dryer Vent Service · Palm Beach County & the Treasure Coast
Dryer Vent Repair
Some vents are not dirty. They are broken. A crushed section, a joint that pulled apart, or a hood whose flap no longer opens will hold your airflow down no matter how clean the duct is. We show you the fault, then quote the fix.
When Cleaning Is Not the Answer
A Clean Duct With a Crushed Section Still Does Not Vent
Cleaning removes what is inside the duct. Repair fixes the duct itself. The difference matters because the symptoms are identical — long drying times, a warm laundry room, weak air at the hood — and a cleaning visit on a damaged run buys you very little.
The most common fault we find is simple mechanical crushing. A dryer pushed back flat against the wall during a remodel or a move will flatten the pipe behind it, and a 4-inch duct squeezed to an inch of clearance is a restriction nothing can brush out.
The second most common is separation. Duct joints in attics and wall cavities are often held by nothing more than friction and a strip of tape that has aged out. When a joint lets go, hot damp air stops going outside and starts going into the attic or the wall instead.
- Common Faults
- Crushing, separation, leaking seams
- Diagnosis
- Airflow reading plus visual trace
- Quoted
- After you have seen the problem
- Not Included
- Opening walls or ceilings
Faults We Repair
What Actually Breaks on a Dryer Vent
Each of these produces the same complaint in the laundry room and needs a different fix.
Crushed or kinked pipe
Flattened behind an appliance, stepped on in an attic, or kinked at a tight turn. The duct cross-section is gone and no amount of cleaning restores it.
Separated joints
A connection that pulled apart inside a wall or attic. Exhaust now dumps into the cavity, which is both a moisture problem and an airflow problem.
Leaking seams
Tape that has dried out and let go, or a seam that was never properly fastened. Air escapes before it reaches the outdoors and lint collects where it leaks.
Damaged exterior hood
Cracked housing, a bent louver, or a cover broken by a pressure washer or a storm. Often paired with a flap that no longer seals.
A flap that will not swing
Painted shut, lint-jammed, or warped. A flap that cannot open is a closed door at the end of your duct.
Pest screens and guards
Mesh fitted over a termination to keep animals out catches lint perfectly. We remove or replace it with something that does the job without blocking the air.
⚠️ If the duct has separated inside a wall or attic, the exhaust is putting heat and moisture into the structure. Have it looked at rather than waiting for the next laundry day.
How a Repair Visit Runs
Show the Fault, Then Quote the Fix
Nothing gets replaced before you have seen why it needs replacing.
1
Measure and trace
An airflow reading at the termination tells us how bad the restriction is. Following the run tells us where it is. Those two together usually identify the fault within a few minutes.
2
Show you what we found
Photos of the crushed section, the open joint, or the jammed flap, so the quote is attached to something you can see rather than a description you have to take on trust.
3
Agree the scope
We tell you which parts are reachable without opening finished surfaces, what we would replace, and what the work costs. If part of the run is buried, we say so and tell you what that would involve.
4
Repair and verify
We make the repair, run the dryer, and take the airflow reading again. If the number has not moved, the fault was not the only one, and we say that rather than packing up.
Scope
What a Repair Covers
Repairs are quoted individually because no two damaged runs are alike. What stays constant is where the work stops.
- Airflow reading before and after the repair
- Replacing reachable crushed, kinked or torn duct sections
- Refastening and sealing separated joints with metal tape or clamps
- Replacing a damaged exterior hood or a flap that will not swing
- Removing lint-catching pest screens and fitting a suitable alternative
- Photos of the fault and of the finished repair
What this visit does not cover
- No opening finished surfaces. We do not cut drywall, ceilings, or flooring to reach duct that is buried.
- No structural work. Cabinets, closet framing, and built-in surrounds stay where they are.
- No appliance repair. Faults inside the dryer need an appliance technician, not us.
- No unsafe roof work. Where a roof termination needs repair, access has to be safe or we do not attempt it.
What changes the price
Three things move the number: how much duct has to be replaced, how hard the damaged section is to reach, and whether the termination needs work too. A kinked elbow behind an accessible dryer is the easy end. A separated joint deep in an attic over a second-floor laundry is the other.
If the whole run is past repairing rather than patching, we will say so and quote replacement instead. Replacing the right amount once is cheaper than repairing the same run three times.
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Questions
Dryer Vent Repair FAQ
Can you repair the duct without cutting into my wall?
Usually, yes. Most of the faults we find sit at the two ends of the run — behind the dryer and at the termination — and both are reachable without opening anything. Where the damage is in the middle of a concealed run, we will tell you honestly that reaching it means opening a surface, and that is your call and generally a contractor’s job rather than ours.
Is a repair worth it, or should I replace the whole run?
It depends on what is wrong and what the duct is made of. A single crushed elbow on an otherwise sound metal run is worth repairing. A run assembled from flexible foil with four sagging joints is worth replacing, because each repair just relocates the weak point. We will give you our read and the price for both.
How long does a dryer vent repair take?
Many repairs are done in the same visit as the diagnosis, in roughly an hour. Longer if the termination needs replacing, or if the reachable duct has to come out in sections. If we need a part we do not carry, we tell you before we start rather than halfway through.
My exterior vent cover is broken. Does that really matter?
More than people expect. The hood keeps rain and animals out and the flap keeps outside air from pushing back into the duct. A broken cover invites nesting, which is one of the more stubborn blockages we deal with, and a flap stuck shut will drop your airflow as surely as a plug of lint.
Do you guarantee the repair?
If something we repaired fails because of how we repaired it, tell us within 14 days and we will put it right or refund that part of the service. What we will not promise is that a run we patched in one place will never develop a fault somewhere else — and if we think that is likely, we will tell you so at the quote rather than afterwards.